The Rich Heritage of Leather in India – From the Secrets to Your Belt
Leather has always had a special mystique – strong, flexible and refined. At Dalen Luxury, every belt we make is linked not just to craftsmanship but also to a long story: how leather came to India in full force, how cities like Kanpur became the leather capital, and how this industry transformed Indian livelihoods and economy.
How Leather Came to India During the British Era
Although leather working in India is centuries old, the origins of the modern, organised leather industry are largely associated with the British colonial period. When the British set up cantonments and military posts across India in the 18th and 19th centuries, there was a huge and steady demand for leather goods – shoes, saddles, harnesses, belts, etc. Kanpur (then called Cawnpore) became one of those centres. Around 1778, the English East India Company stationed troops there, which increased the demand for leather goods. Artisans and craftsmen who made leather by hand migrated to meet this demand. Gradually factories and large units were set up under British patronage – for example, the Government Harness and Saddlery Factory, and Cooper (Copper) Allen & Co. – which supplied the army with boots, saddlery, harness, etc. These factories had the scope and capital to increase production.
How leather came to India during the British period
Although leather work in India is centuries old, the origins of the modern, organised leather industry are largely associated with the British colonial period. When the British set up cantonments and military posts across India in the 18th and 19th centuries, there was a huge and steady demand for leather goods – shoes, saddles, harnesses, belts, etc.
Kanpur (then called Cawnpore) became one of those centres. Around 1778, the English East India Company stationed troops there, which increased the demand for leather goods. Artisans and craftsmen who made leather by hand migrated to meet this demand.
Gradually factories and larger units were set up under British patronage – for example, the Government Harness and Saddlery Factory, and Cooper (Copper) Allen & Co. – which supplied shoes, saddles, harnesses, etc. to the army. These factories had the scope and capital to increase production.
Why Kanpur and Northern India Several factors helped Kanpur become central
Geographical location and raw materials: Proximity to water (such as the Ganges), abundance of hides produced by animals, and access to infrastructure made the establishment of tanneries
Labour availability: A vast workforce, including artisans skilled in the domestic craft of leather, could be organized into tanneries and factories
British demand/military contracts: As mentioned, the colonial army's need for boots, saddles, and laces helped develop infrastructure. British government contracts provided stability and scale.
Export opportunities: Global demand for leather products from developed countries grew in the 20th century; materials and craftsmanship in India became competitive. Also, as environmental and labour costs rose elsewhere, manufacturing shifted to regions such as India.
India’s Transformation & Economic Impacts
Turning Points During World War I and World War II, demand was very high, leading to a huge increase in production capacity and organisation in places like Kanpur.
After independence, there were ups and downs, but the 1980s-1990s saw revival and expansion – government policies, export orientation, expansion of small and medium enterprises.
The leather industry has been more than just a craft; it has been a major source of economic growth, job creation, exports and local prosperity. Let's find out how
Employment and skill development
From cottage artisans to workers in large leather factories, the sector has generated thousands of jobs – semi-skilled and unskilled – that have helped poor families in Kanpur and surrounding districts.
Employment and skill development
From cottage artisans to workers in large leather factories, the sector has created thousands of jobs – semi-skilled and unskilled – helping poor families in Kanpur and surrounding districts.
Development of Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) and Clusters
Many small and medium-sized leather enterprises – shoe factories, belt and bag companies, saddlery companies – settled around Kanpur (Jajmau, Unnao, Banthar, etc.). This clustering enabled shared services, supply chains and skill pools. Government programmes such as the Kanpur Leather Cluster Development helped in this.
Technological upgradation and environmental awareness
Over time, modernisation, improved tanning techniques, pollution control (especially effluent treatment plants) and regulatory frameworks became important. Although these increased costs, they were essential to maintain export competitiveness.
Multiplier effect
The leather sector stimulated supporting sectors: chemical industries (leather industry, dyeing industry), textile components, hardware (buckles, fasteners), packaging and transportation. It also contributed to urbanisation and improvements in local infrastructure in places such as Kanpur.
Why the 1990s were particularly important
Although the leather industry in India has a long history, the 1990s proved to be a turning point in several ways:
India liberalised its economy in 1991: reduction in trade barriers, greater openness to global trade. This made it easier for leather exporters to access global markets.
Advancements in the manufacturing sector, improved communication and better logistics made Indian leather goods easily accessible to international buyers.
Increased competition from plastic and synthetic goods led to an improvement in the quality of leather goods; also, a fashion trend towards leather belts, jackets and other accessories – belts, though small, were a symbol of luxury/style – led to increased demand.
At the same time, units in Kanpur and other parts began to turn to finished products from raw or semi-finished leather. This led to value addition within India rather than raw leather exports.
Challenges and modern responses
Undoubtedly, the leather industry has faced many challenges – environmental pollution (especially from tannery waste), regulatory compliance, rising costs of labour and inputs, competition, periodic decline in global demand. Kanpur’s leather economy has seen some decline in recent years due to these problems.
However, there are signs of improvement: new government policies to boost the leather and footwear sector, cleaner technologies, “leather parks” bringing together production with shared infrastructure, and a greater emphasis on sustainability.
Connection to the belt - what this heritage means for your Dalen luxury belt
All of this history isn't just interesting - it's also part of what goes into the leather belts made in India (particularly in the Kanpur area) today
Heritage and craftsmanship: Centuries-old leather work, handed-down skills, artisans who know how to dye, cut, and stitch.
Quality of materials and techniques: Traditional dyeing (sometimes mixed with modern methods), high-quality buckles, hand stitching. These features mean durability – a belt that lasts for years.
Value addition: The finished belt is a higher-value product than raw leather exports, so there’s an incentive to maintain good standards.
Sustainability: As the industry modernizes, belts made with cleaner processes, better waste management, and more transparent sourcing are becoming possible – and are in growing demand globally.
Looking ahead India’s leather belt industry in 2020 and beyond
Global style and local crafts: Belts are no longer just functional; they are also fashion statements. Indian brands can compete globally with well-designed, high-quality belts.
Sustainable practices: Eco-tanning, use of clean water, chemical control, ethical supply chains – these will increasingly shape consumer choices.
Government support: A favourable environment has been created with footwear and leather development policies (new cluster parks, subsidies, export promotion councils).
Digital and direct-to-consumer models: Online branding (like Dalen Luxury), storytelling (heritage, craftsmanship), quality guarantee – these all add value.
Why Choose Dalen Luxury After Knowing This Heritage
When you understand the history of leather in India, choosing Dalen Luxury becomes a natural choice. Find out why:
Rooted in Heritage - Every Dalen belt carries forward the centuries-old leather tradition of Kanpur, blending historic craftsmanship and modern design.
Handmade by Skilled Artisans - Our belts are sewn by expert Indian artisans who have inherited this talent for generations.
Premium-Grade Leather - Only the finest full-grain and vegetable-tanned leather is used, ensuring strength, durability, and timeless beauty.
Attention to Detail - Every stitch, cut, and buckle placement is done with precision - no shortcuts, no compromises.
Ethically Made - Our process respects artisans, supports local livelihoods, and encourages sustainable production methods.
Purposeful Luxury - Wearing a Dalen belt means supporting India's leather heritage while making a global fashion statement.
Designed for longevity - Our belts are built to last, and get even better over time as they develop a unique patina.
A Pride of Indian Craftsmanship - Each item embodies the artistry of India's leather industry, making it a symbol of both culture and style.
Conclusion
From the tanneries of 19th century colonial India to the modern tanneries of Kanpur; from British military harnesses and boots, to fashion belts that symbolize status and style - the journey of leather in India is a story of adaptation, skill, trade and economic change.
When you wear a Dalen Luxury belt, you wear more than just leather - you wear history. You wear craftsmanship, resilience and the promise of a legacy that continues to evolve.